The new Versace woman is no longer the sleek, ultra-modern, calculated symbol of power she has been for many years past. Donatella brought forth a new image for Atelier Versace, made up of romantic lace, frayed edges, and flared hemlines, along with naturally messy hair and flower crowns.
The looks from the collection, albeit far from the usual Versace sharpness, still carried common attributes of Versace designs. Dresses were asymmetrical and unapologetically provocative with daring necklines. Expert draping made the daring amount of skin shown in the torso seem casual, creating the idea of a carefree muse, of enticement without effort.
- The abandonment of Versace’s usual calculated, ultra-sleek style showed flexibility and modernity from the house
- The collection oozed sex appeal, despite being softer: sheer cloth, plunging necklines, high slits, and corset inspired torsos kept the Versace woman sexually empowered.
- Creative, asymmetrical necklines commonly featured vines as embellishments, which could have been over-the-top, but turned out to be a subtle touch.
- The platform boots with the collection resembled go-go boots; although they were a unique, edgy choice and sometimes contrasted nicely with the very hippie looks, they caused a few looks to seem a bit awkward and more showgirl than elegant.
- A few dresses were symmetric with classic silhouettes; they seemed to have come from a Free People catalogue, not an Atelier Versace show. We crave couture week for the dramatic flair.
- Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Natasha Poly in the frow rather than the runway: We love to see that they are respected friends of the house, but we missed Natasha Poly on the runway, and Rosie’s Atelier Versace dress definitely deserved a runway moment.
- Lack of diversity: I counted a total of three non-white models from a total of 39. Please consider your expanding market.
Overall, the collection exceeded my expectations. Gianni Versace once said that Donatella’s magic is in that everything that she touches is modern: this collection certainly proved that. The collection beautifully reflects the current societal desire of natural beauty and a return to nature. The ability to combine provocative luxury with hippie romance requires expert skill in subtlety, and this collection definitely succeeded. The lineup of distinguished models such as Mariacarla Boscono, Joan smalls, Doutzen Kroes, and Karlie Kloss further reinforced the strength of the Versace woman. Never one to be written off, the Versace house has shown its skill, creativity, and versatility.
Predictions for the season:
As the couture shows come through, trends are easy to see: Flare, ruffles, and asymmetry will be the name of the game in fall. This Atelier Versace show is sure to inspire tons of boho designs for the coming season. What’s more, the flowing crotchet lace hippie dress will be the new sexiest minidress. I predict that the lavender and utility green colors, as well as the bright orange shown on the Versace runway will be big hits this fall.
More notable looks:
All photos from Style.com. Click here to see all the runway looks!